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What I Learned from Hours of YouTube Beauty Tutorials

8 months ago by

When I don’t shoot, I retouch what I’ve shot. It takes hours. This photo that you see in the header of this post – took an hour and 15 mins. As you can imagine, it’s a lot of staring at the computer. Even more so now, that I can’t do my job as a fashion photographer sitting at home. But because I’m blessed with such an activity that doesn’t require rigorous thinking, I like to have some noise in the background, rather than listening to my own thoughts. Not today, anxiety.

One of the most soothing things I found is YouTube, specifically, channels about skincare. As with anything on YouTube, it was a progression. It all started with Go To Bed With Me by Harper’s Bazaar, then their other series, Derm Reacts. Derm Reacts, a show where dermatologists react to comments and questions about skincare, eventually led me to a channel called Mixed Makeup by Susan Yara. And then through Susan, I found Hyram, a sweet and sassy guy who lives in Hawaii and teaches me about how to perfect my skincare – his promise.

I know, I know, we shouldn’t believe everything that we see on the internet. But the information that I synthesised over the course of several months of watching this content, I promise, changed my approach to skincare for the best. I used to splash just about any toner all over my face, followed by a whole bunch of random products I picked up from The Ordinary, and some moisturizers with confusing promises. Or, simply lathering some sort of oil on and calling it a day.

So…drumroll for the Skincare Lessons I’ve Learned from Watching Too Much YouTube:

Natural is not always better. Yes, we don’t want too many toxins in our creams. But just because we can’t pronounce something, doesn’t mean it’s bad, or that it’s a “chemical”. I couldn’t pronounce 75% of the words in chemistry class, and one of them was oxygen. Your honor, I rest my case. Natural/organic ingredients can sometimes be incredibly unstable and therefore more dangerous to the skin. That leads me to my next point.

Coconut oil is not an antidote to everything. I had my days of coconut oil overconsumption. We probably all did a couple of years ago. I don’t know who coconut oil’s PR is, but they did a fantastic job. I used to use it as a moisturizer every day, and then walk around with this greasy face, marking clothes and sheets. But coconut oil turns out to be incredibly comedogenic. Meaning it clogs your pores for good. But besides that, it’s not moisturizing.

Oils are not moisturizers. Face oils are all the rage now. Every new brand it seems starts a skincare line with oil of some sort. But they are hugely misused. It doesn’t help that every one of those brands promise their oil will hydrate you to the core. But what oils do is seal everything underneath them. That is why it’s not recommended to use it on bare skin. It’s also useless to put any other products atop of it. None of the benefits will ever reach your skin. You can use it at the very end of your routine, or you can forgo this step and never use face oils in your life again.

Makeup Wipes are a big NO. I never jumped on this train, but it’s overwhelming how many celebs in Go To Bed With Me series use them as their first, if not only, cleansing step. Every derm and skincare specialist is adamant about just how awful those things are. Susan Yara will explain it better, but here’s the gist – makeup wipes are rough on your skin, stretching and irritating it, which leads to premature aging. They also don’t clean makeup off that well. They smear it around, so you absolutely need to get your face wet and soapy to actually get everything off. They are also wasteful. If you use a lot of makeup, it’s recommended to use double cleanse. I’ll leave it to the pro to explain the process.

In-flight skincare should stop. Do all your cleansing, masks and eye patches before your flight, so you are protected and moisturized while traveling. Airplanes are gross, for one, but also, give your neighbor some respect.

No more scrubbing. Scrubs can be very satisfying, but you risk damaging your skin by creating micro-tears and being rough with it. Exfoliation is important, but it’s much better to use a chemical exfoliant, like glycolic or lactic acid (AHA), or, in rare cases salicylic acid (BHA) can be used to treat acne or pore congestion.

SUNSCREEN SUNSCREEN SUNSCREEN. Sun is hugely responsible for skin aging. It took me awhile to understand just how important SPF is. It seems that for me, like for a lot of people, the prospect of skin cancer seems distant enough to slack on sun protection. But, when I learned about aging, lo and behold, I stocked up my SPF shelf to the top. Not because I’m afraid of wrinkles per se, but if I get them out of laziness, I better get my act together. My whole family spent their lives working in the garden, planting and harvesting our food supply for the whole year. I’ve seen my dad covered with sun spots and extreme allergy to UV. To the point where his face and back would inflame and swell. My mom in her late 30s already had deep, and I mean deeeeep, crow feet and bags under her eyes. I’d like to avoid that, thanks. Pro Tip – use mineral sunscreen, not chemical. If unsure, look for reef safe versions on the market. My favorite is Supergoop PLAY Everyday Lotion SPF 50.

These days, my skincare routine is pretty simple. A wash followed by Vitamin C serum and SPF in the morning, and a wash and moisturizer at night. I exfoliate a few days a week, sometimes daily depending on how my skin feels, using glycolic acid based toner. Skincare is very personal though, so the products I use may not work for you.

However if you need guidance in understanding which products to use, in what order, and if you want to learn about which brands to use or avoid (backed by actual specialist’s knowledge), talk to an aesthetician…And/or if you simply need a quarantine pass time activity, here are a few playlists I recommend you start with:

Derm Reacts by Harper’s Bazaar
Skincare Reactions by Susan Yara (start with Bella Thorne, you won’t regret it)
Brand Reviews by Hyram
Specialist Reacts by Hyram (a more emotional/funny brother of Susan Yara’s skincare reactions videos)

Sit back, relax, and let skincare YouTube take you down its rabbithole.

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20 comments

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  • Wendell April, 2 2020, 11:41 / Reply

    Fantastic, realistic, fact-filled and well-written article. And I second you on Hyram and Susan Yara. Cyrille Laurent is also very good with explaining ingredients and the importance of sunscreen.

  • Thanks for reading! And for the recommendation. I’ll check Cyrille Laurent’s channel. So many men in this field, I’m surprised! :)

  • Rings true to many inklings I’ve had about skincare trends but was afraid to say out loud…

  • julent April, 2 2020, 3:13 / Reply

    Hi,
    Thanks for the article. Just want to say that the Supergoop sunscreen is not reef safe.

    https://www.themanual.com/grooming/best-reef-safe-sunscreen/
    https://www.consumerreports.org/sunscreens/the-truth-about-reef-safe-sunscreen/

  • Oh my! Thank you for pointing that out… What a shame! And I just bought their large pack :( It feels soo nice on the skin.

  • Mamavalveeta03 April, 5 2020, 12:43

    Yup! I just came to say the same thing. And Supergoop “Play” is a CHEMICAL sunscreen.

  • That’s what happens when you trust packaging blindly! Learn from my mistakes kids :) And thanks for pointing this out!!

  • Jorge Alexandre Teixeira April, 3 2020, 4:19 / Reply

    Thank’s for the pointers, B !!!
    «… activity that doesn’t require rigorous thinking…» It’s more like… Taste and intuitive and emotional Intelligence, i hear you !!!
    Bom fim de semana and …You and Jason take care , alright ?

  • Jorge, you’re the sweetest the best-est reader!
    Me and Jason are good, thank you for asking! I hope you and your loved ones are safe and sound as well xx

  • Great article really appreciated the fact filled references

  • Paula B April, 5 2020, 8:27 / Reply

    This was a fantastic article. Loved it and learned a lot! Well written and very informative!

  • Hehe, I also like diving into youtube skincare black holes. I think one thing these videos don’t talk about is also giving your skin a break from time to time. No need to slather on a million active ingredients everyday all day. Thats how I’ve been feeling anyways. Great article!

  • Okay, yes, thank you for busting so many myths. I feel like skin-care is one of those things where everybody sounds like they know what they’re talking about (especially gullible celebs) but nobody actually tells you the scientific TRUTH about what’s good for you. Anyway, I’ll be using sunscreen from now on if I’ve learned anything.
    Thanks!

    -M
    The Life of Little Me

  • hi Bogdana, I’m a fan of our photography here on Doré and would love to know more about how you work (being a starting photographer myself). Any chance you could learn us something regarding preparing a shoot, the kind of light you use & the kind of post production you do? Anyhow, I love your work! x

  • Hi Eva,

    Thank you SO much for your comment and interest.

    I can talk about it in Instagram Live in a few weeks that will be a part of Postcards From Home series. Make sure to follow DORÉ instagram for updates :)

  • Your got it all down! I had to chuckle at “Natural is not always better.” I’m 61 and while I love me some Eminence products, I also love the products that my dermatologist recommends because I see solid results and I know he’s clued in on the latest research. Btw, I started wearing sunscreen every single day at 30. My go to now is EltaMD 46…even if it’s raining.

  • Helena April, 8 2020, 7:07 / Reply

    Love this post! I’ve always been skeptical of wipes and tiring skincare routines on airplanes. Great advice. Thank you.

  • Thank you for this article!! I’m really into skincare but am always struggling with what to look out for and what to buy- especially with a ton of “the best products” lists on the Internet!

  • Nice article. I’m totally with you on the SPF and ‘natural’ not necessarily being better. However, I hold a different view regarding the coconut oil, or any oil for that matter. In the Netherlands, every dermatologist, GP or biology teacher that I know has told me that the idea that the skin can absorb nutrients is a myth. It just doesn’t happen. It is more useful to think of skin as a piece of leather. You can keep leather in optimal condition by keeping it greasy. So as for skin care, other than SPF, all you need to do is keeping it supple by greasing/oiling it. Anything fatty will do: coconut, sesame, olive oil, but also vaseline or really fatty creams. Which makes skin care rather simple (and cheap).

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